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Rip
Tide
David Rensin profiles an iconic Malibu outlaw
“IF YOU HAD TO PICK ONE SURFER that epitomized
California surfing in the 20th century, it would be Miki
Dora,” said Steve Pezman, cofounder and publisher of
Surfer’s Journal.
“Everything that’s wrong with it and everything that’s
right with it.” In his massive biography
All for a Few Perfect
Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer
Miki Dora (HarperEntertainment, 496 pages,
$26), L.A. journalist David Rensin doesn’t shy from
documenting Dora’s multitude of sins – the stealing and
swindling, the juvenile pranks, the prison terms–even as
he celebrates the man’s desire to live a life of utter,
and often utterly irresponsible, freedom. Rensin
interviewed 300 people to capture the late surfer’s
life, a life that, by all conventional standars, gave
train wrecks a bad name. True surfers, of course, are
never conventional, and the result is a book as big as
the unchallenged King of Malibu’s long and rocky
career. // ROBERT ITO |
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Famous surfer
Miki Dora's Dorsi
(Latissimus Dorsi, that is).
Amazing the size comparison between his waste and his
shoulders! |
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“Miki Dora would change his surf board for a
dark suit
to attend events with famous people, like
Pierre Salinger”
Also pictured is Daryl Stolper in the light
suit on the left; a famous surfer!
“He also crashed parties in
Beverly
Hills. Now how many
surfers do you know with dark suits who
would do this?”
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Updated
June 19, 2008. All contents copyright ©2005-2008 Peter Gowland.
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